Today is a special day, and it's a first for me; my first birthday without my sister and my daddy. And since it is my birthday, I’m going to use this day to reflect on the past year of my life. Although it was filled with grief, like a thunderbolt in a storm, there were some truly amazing moments as well, that need to be acknowledged. This post, however, is not about the pain but about achievement and milestones of the past year. I hope it inspires others to see how incredible life can be, even in the face of challenges.
Since becoming skippers on June 4th, 2019, we've marked our 5-year anniversary as sailors. This past June also marked four years as liveaboard cruisers since we began this adventure. The difference between a liveaboard and a cruiser? Apparently both live onboard their yacht throughout the year, but a cruiser typically sails between countries exploring the seas, while a liveaboard tends to stay put in their marina, like a camper in a caravan park, often neglecting maintenance in favor of drinking warm beer and eating baked beans (even sailing has its social hierarchies 😂). So far we've sailed 20,000 nautical miles (over 37,000 km) with 95 overnight nights at sea without sight of land. (And no, Shannon, we can’t anchor between Greece and Italy in 3,000m of water with our 60m chain when we need a nap 😜)
But that’s the boring part. What’s exciting - despite the ongoing freak squalls and storms - are the new experiences we've had aboard GypsyDjango in 2024. Since I like digressing, and for those wondering, the difference between a squall and a storm is that a squall is a group of storms arranged in a line, accompanied by very high winds and heavy rain. They pass quickly (within about 30 minutes) and are less likely to produce tornadoes (a bonus!). Essentially, they're a bunch of storms marching in step - very wide but not very deep - and you’re unlucky if you end up in their path, as we have on two occasions this year. You can see them approaching on the horizon; first the wind drops to nothing - giving you a moment to frantically reef your sails and tie everything down. Then the wind direction shifts by up to 180 degrees, accelerating in strength and speed as it envelops you. They mostly aren't life-threatening though, just damaging to your yacht as they try to rip everything apart.
Ok returning to the great things. Come walk with me…. There are many nautical sayings, like the one that claims living on a boat is one big holiday. In some ways that’s true, because, despite the occasional hardships it’s the journey, the exhilaration of being powered by the wind in your sails as you glide through the waves - or bounce over with a split lip for thanks 😂 - that keeps me coming back for more.
The best part is the planning; the path we take to Croatia each year and the return trip to Spain, always choosing a new route along the way. The journey there typically takes us a little less than two months because it’s about the adventures along the way, not the destination. But if we didn’t enjoy visiting and exploring the countries along the way, and didn’t touch land, it would only take about 10 days in a straight shot (assuming favorable weather and no need to hide from storms). We tend to return faster, though, because sailing in autumn, as winter approaches, carries increased risks - thanks to rising water temperatures in the Mediterranean and those lovely squalls.
We plan our routes carefully, researching anchorages, favouring wild, less-touristy spots, and consulting fellow cruisers on the safety of coastlines. We know the southern Italian coastline can be hostile, flat, and unforgiving. While northern Sicily is plagued by katabatic winds blowing fiercely down from the mountains. Sardinia is breathtakingly beautiful, but the wind tends to blow constantly - great for wing foiling, not so great for a good night’s sleep.
We’re also mindful of which countries police yachts for anchoring in the seagrass, named after the Greek god Poseidon, or how far you need to anchor from a beach. We know where we can tie supporting lines ashore for extra safety - something that literally saved our yacht during the 2020 hurricane in Lefkada, Greece. We always know where our closest safe haven is, especially those “hurricane hole” bays that provide almost 360 degree wind protection. We’re always up to date on where we're restricted from bringing our tender ashore to get access to land and where we’re welcomed.
When the weather’s good, we try to get on land as often as possible to explore and exercise, usually preferring running over cycling during summer. Sometimes, though, it can be five days before we see land and that can drive me slightly crazy.
But wow, no matter what, when I wake up to see the sunrise over the sea or watch it set in the evening, or when I go to sleep in a different country to the one I woke in the morning, I can't help but love these moments. Two days ago I was chatting with a warm-hearted Greek, and today it's a flirtatious Italian. Tomorrow, who knows… I wonder how I’ve managed to end up in this life, so I make every moment count. I live as fully as I can - adventuring, laughing, and yes, sometimes screaming!
Today I am older. I am also wiser, and I’ve grown through my grief. But my love for adventure hasn’t waned - in this I am forever young. I celebrate today without my family here physically, but they are with me in my heart always. I look forward to more adventures, more experiences, and more growth, even if it’s uncomfortable at times.
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