Croatia 2.0

Croatia has, in recent years, become one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe. This is (sadly) partly due to the Game of Thrones series filming location for King’s Landing, but mostly because people have discovered that besides Croatia’s beautiful beaches and islands they have an amazing wine culture and gorgeous medieval towns as well.

Croatia has a small population of 4.15 million and boasts more than 2715 hours of sunshine per year. But the biggest surprise is that they have 1244 Islands, of which fascinatingly less than 50 are inhabited by people!

“ We are going to be very busy trying to sail to all those Islands”

It is a country that has suffered many hardships and wars, with a history steeped in intrigue. Dynasties have fought over the lands that are today Croatia for centuries; from the Romans, Hungarians, Venetians and Turks, back to the Venetians, Napoleon and the dream that was Yugoslavia. Then you have the impacts of WW1 and WW2 before an attempt at independence, followed by the “war of independence” (of which the damage is still visible today in many of the old towns) and finally peace in 1995.

Gladiators used to fight here, in an arena in Pula. In design it is almost exactly like the Colosseum in Rome, except that Pula’s is substantially less famous yet even more impressive! And it’s in far better condition, despite being over 2.000 years old (probably since the citizens didn’t pull down a third of the stone for other construction projects). The Pula amphitheatre was used to pit convicted criminals in battle against wild animals, but now plays hosts to concerts and shows. This is a town that I would very much like to visit soon - especially if Hauser is performing in the Amphitheater.

With just over 38% of the country designated as a terrestrial protected area, Croatia ranks an impressive 12th globally. Within these many national parks and reserves one finds Plitvice - with its impressive lakes, waterfalls, valleys and hills; Krka lakes; Paklenica, the island of Miljet and the many islands that make up Kornati national park.

So if Island hopping, enjoying vineyards, experiencing world UNESCO sites, walking the cobbled pathways of old towns, photographing blue caves, swimming in secluded bays and submarine bunkers, snorkeling in crystal water, dining on Mediterranean cuisine and absorbing the history appeals to you, then you will understand why Croatia has become so popular.

I have visited Croatia a total of six times now and each has been an unique experience. While I cannot say that the first visit was the best, 2009 was definitely the start of a pathway that has led us here today. Combining all of the above with a favorable currency for South Africans, along with that “escape from civilization feeling” has made this country a favorite of ours and frequented our return visits. Each visit involved sailing and each visit created a different set of memories, however all trips ultimately ended up with what I am calling Croatia 1.0.

Irrespective of the fact that we discovered Croatia long before Game of Thrones and their multitude of followers did, there are always two sides to every country - that of being on holiday vs living there. To commit to a future based purely on faith from holidays, without truly having experienced the other side, is possibly testament to how special this country truly is.

So bring on Croatia 2.0! But before we go there let’s explain 1.0. Yes the beauty I described but I never had an opportunity to experience and understand the culture and community in depth. We were focused on being tourists, exploring the old towns with their restaurants and bars. We loved the cuisine and the marinas and partying with fellow tourists. What makes the country and people tick, the less popular places, the off the beaten track - they didn’t really feature on our limited two week agenda focused on maximizing sun and swim time.

So what is 2.0, and is it less than 1.0? We now live in a different Croatia and what a discovery it has been. To be able to travel to a different island or town almost daily - we have already been to 16 and yes we still have another 1228 to find on our recky adventure - regardless of their appeal based on popularity. We have discovered some magic towns and bays that would never before have featured on our radar. We are interacting with the Croatian people on a different level as they understand we have chosen their country not for a weekly charter holiday, but rather as our new way of life. While we are far off from becoming “a local”, we have started to see this beautiful country and culture in a broader view.

And what else has changed? Being South African we are accustomed to a level of exceptional service as the norm and so originally found the Croatians somewhat standoffish. It wasn’t until I toured the neighboring Slovenia last year that I learnt the way of the Croats or Serbs; if you give 50% you get 10% back. However if you give 100% you get 150% in return and trying this out has resulted in some great meaningful interactions already.

From Boris, mentioned in my previous blog, who transported us after the ferry trip in his over packed car to shop assistants who allow us to buy on their staff card so we can receive the same specials and discounts as the locals. Mooring in tiny perfect bays for more than one night has resulted in a number of great interactions from the handful of local inhabitants who are just too pleased that we are enjoying their backyard rather than parachuting in and out, ticking off an “I’ve been their list” of the typically charter tourists.