Growing Wings Instead of Roots

A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving (Lao Tzu)

If I can take your mind back to our adventure from last year… you will remember it was an often stressful time of overcoming constant hurdles and challenges. From getting out of Barcelona during lockdown to catching cargo ferries out of Italy. Getting special approval from the Croatian director of police to enter Croatia and finally take ownership of GypsyDjango in June to survive a Mediterranean Hurricane in Greece three months later. It was with a fair bit of relief that we finally tied our lines to shore in Spain after five months as new liveaboards and an exponential learning curve. The stability in Arenys de Mar over winter provided us with some much needed normality and a temporary home that we desperately needed as we transitioned fully into this new nomad life of ours.

It was with much excitement and anticipation that we left Areyns in March this year, embarking on our first full season of sailing. Seven months at sea, the vast majority of that in exquisite bays avoiding marinas, and many many hours and nautical miles later, and we are back in Barcelona for another winter. But being back in our “squatter camp for yachts” (as my mum-in-law rightly calls it) feels different this year. There’s none of last year's relief or need for stability, but more on that later.

We’ve had an incredible time this year; an epic journey of discovery of more beautiful places than we can scarcely remember on our way to and back from Croatia. While Croatia once again delivered as the perfect summer sailing and holiday destination, it was the Ionian islands of Greece that captured my heart. I suppose not needing to survive a Medicane this time around helped ;-)

The western side of the islands are spectacular and rugged, the estern sides calm and lush, and the Greek people down-to-earth and genuine. The towns are a little less dressed up, the boats a little less shiny, and the people a whole lot more welcoming - very different from the sophisticated, well-marketed playground of the rich and famous that is Croatia.

On the way out to Croatia we explored the north-west of Sardegna a little and what we saw of the island had us longing to come back. So unlike last year, where we briefly stopped for a night's recovery on the southern tip of Sardegna, on this year’s return journey to Spain we decided to explore the north-east coast of the island - and it was a good decision. It’s not just the beautiful clear waters and white sand beaches, but the mountains with their rugged cliffs, lush forests and nature on land that is so appealing.

I use an amazing app called finding penguins to give a visual representation and remind us of all the places to which we have been to as it can get a little confusing. I found it very interesting to compare this years route to last and try remember back if choices were driven by discovery or dictated to by weather. However, it is great to know that our travels are no longer only about the destination but the fun between. By the way these guys have been great. They have even coded a few software enhancement tweaks based on my pretty pleases.

As fantastic as we found Sardegna, I did find it somewhat brave of us to be ignoring the approaching winter season so that we could spend more time there - at least that’s what I thought the idea was. Turns out it was all part of a bigger plan for a birthday surprise that had us delaying our return to Spain. And it was with this surprise that Ebbe arrived from Germany to spend a few days on GypsyDjango with us and give me the best birthday ever! I won't discuss the fact that I burst into tears when I saw him becuase I was so happy, having said that, it might have also been the tequila and chocolates that he brought!

Leaving Greece at the end of September on route to Sardegna once again necessitated the navigation of the infamous Messina Straits. Managing this channel between the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas, with its strong currents, many ferries, and countless tankers is always a challenge. This is not a section you do while half a sleep. We have crossed this piece three times and each time I am more than a little afraid. It does look and feel a little like you are playing one of those old arcade games. Fortunately at this time of year we avoided the crazy swordfishing boats that hunt in the straits, causing plenty of havoc in their pursuit of a fish that is possibly more intelligent than they are (there’s a fine line between brave and stupid and I think you need to be stupid to navigate one of these boats from atop a 30m tower).

Six and a half days of continuous sailing later and we arrived in Sardegna exhausted, but with a great sense of achievement. We are definitely learning to push our limits and the amount of sleep we need to adequately function, quickly settling into our shift patterns. Reading and surviving the ever changing conditions, without access to land or the outside world, was a big thing for us. The key as always is to manage the expectations of our loved ones waiting for an update ;-). Oh, and cooking food while out at sea in crashing waves is another adventure on it’s own.

Our final crossing of the trip, from Sardegna to Barcelona, was an 59-hour rollercoaster trip of reefing sails, 30 knot winds and 4 metre swells. Our shifts went out the window as there was little chance of getting a good four hours sleep while being constantly tossed around - and anything and everything that wasn’t nailed down found a way to travel through the air. It was with relief that we arrived in the safe harbour of Arenys de Mar at 2 am, to exactly the same spot as last year that they kindly kept reserved for us.

I wish that I felt like I was back home, but I don’t. It has taken me a good few weeks to settle my nerves and adjust to the noise pollution, lights and “crowds” of being back in the little sleepy sea-side village that is Arenys. We had to do a day trip into Barcelona city the other day and after that shock I desperately wanted to un-tie our mooring lines and head straight back out to a bay on the closest island I could find. I am starting to settle in, but there has been a shift in my mind. I no longer crave a “home base” or the perceived safety of being tied to shore. The nomad in me has taken control and I long for the beautiful bays and wild shores. I long for the adventure and the discovery of new places. For the meeting of the most special and incredible people along the way and the prized gifts of new friendships that are so unique to shared travelling.

I suppose if I have to choose somewhere to be land bound then Arenys is the place for it. A lovely coastline, quaint little Spanish village, great mountains and riding in our backyard, some exceptional friends, a perfect marina, and, yes, that thing (uugh) called civilization - which even I need from time-to-time. Unfortunately it is also the time to make our way through the very long list of repair and maintenance tasks we have been saving for winter.

So for now the sailing adventures are on hold as we focus on others, like exploring new areas of the coastline (by bicycle), and our upcoming trip to our beloved South Africa in December.

It’s been too long and I can’t wait to reconnect with loved ones and friends. This will be a very important time for me.