What does saving the boat - again, bumping the boat and walking 18km’s in 34 degree heat have in common? A big day out.
We always knew it would be a challenging day. It was going to be our first time using the technique of Mediterranean mooring a tight marina in wind. We approached Lefkada after a 7h35 crossing from Antipaxos as we needed to service our engines to prepare for our Mediterranean crossing. After arriving fairly late and knowing that ahead of us was a swing bridge only opening at certain hours we decided to moor for the night before going through. We decided to leave the unknown passage after the bridge of a 40 m wide, 5 m deep channel towards the marina for the morning light.
So that night we moored behind the swing bridge against an old wall next to a really old pirates ship. Ok it looked like one.
Early in the morning I had trepidation as we began the motor to the marina. The catch with Mediterranean mooring is to drop your anchor chain and go astern at the right speed with enough taught chain until you tie up lines on the pier. Remember there are only two of us. The recommendation is 40 m of chain but with the wind blowing us back we somehow managed only 30 m. Mistake number one, we should have started again but we had no choice as it was too windy. Mooring in the only open spot marked with yellow and black lines and a coast guard-only sign mistake number two.
Fortunately the quay manager came past to advise the daily rate and gave permission to stay in that position. Shortly after the mechanics arrived with their workshop to begin the engine service. I asked how long the process would take and was told 1h30.
Glorious, quicker than a car service.
It was now 9 am. Grabbing my laundry I walked in the already over 30 degree heat to the recommended launderette which was only a 3 k round trip.
When walking back I noticed the wind had picked up and the boats were now hitting the pier from behind. It was with much horror when I saw ours was doing the same and so began the nightmare. The wind had picked up to 20 knots and there was not enough chain out to keep us off the pier. We bumped the corner of our boat which was hitting the pier as the boat swung sideways. Grabbing fenders we placed 4 per hull as well as our dinghy as a fender to protect GypsyDjango. The wind was picking up. Our neighboring boat on the left told us to repeat the anchorage at which we laughed and pointed out we had no engines. A yacht then decided to come moor between us and ended up blowing in the wind on top of our neighbor. They then went forward to try again. At which point they came back between our two boats and blew horizontally between us. We ran with our remaining fenders to protect our hull from their bow now facing our boat. Their anchor was swinging in the air towards us. Ten minutes of pushing their boat away, they managed to get a rope to be pulled straight and were pulled away from us without loss of limbs or scratches. They abandoned the attempt and moved on. As soon as they left, the next boat arrived and tried unsuccessfully as well.. After two failed attempts we told them to please move somewhere else.
Breathing a sigh of relief we realized the harbor master had pulled up and was now ordering us to move. We pointed out we had been given permission but was advised that the quay manager had no authority. We told this angry man we had no engine and he told us he didn’t care. So then began the process shifting the boat sideways in the wind minus an engine. We did it with good muscle power, hopefully enough to avoid a fine we could not afford. Exhausted and overheating it was time for me now to walk 3 km to swap out the two 5 kg gas tanks. Now in 33 degree heat. Following google maps I was successful and began the slightly more difficult 3 k return with the heavier bottles.
Then it was time to walk to return to collect the laundry and found the most delightful traditional Greek coffee in a quaint cafe which the owner advised was the same as Turkish coffee that was brought to Greece during the Turkish invasion in 1922.
At 4 pm frustrated because our 1h30 service at 9 am was still in process (tjing tjing) in my mind I was counting the increasing bill, I decided it was indeed time to do my shopping as we were not staying on that pier once they had finished. It was definitely feeling warmer as I grabbed my backpack and advised Kevin I had no choice, I was going as I needed a Red Bull and stepped off the boat. A kind lady came running up and gave me an ice cold Red Bull much to my surprise. I hugged her (hello corona) - and began the 5 k round trip to the Lidl store which is always on the outskirts of towns but has the cheapest pricing. At this stage you are saying insane but remember this is our life of minimalism now and it’s what we have to do. I was too depleted to run so I jogged at a gentle pace. Remembering the Red Bull I took it out and opened it, forgetting I had been jogging and was rewarded with a spray all over my face and top. By this stage I was laughing and appreciating the cool liquid my skin and the refreshing drink with caffeine!
Jogging through the deserted industrial streets I wandered if I died of dehydration or was kidnapped would it be that bad and I remembered my goal, Red Bull so on wards I moved my heavy legs.
I arrived drenched and the security guard felt so bad for me he gave me a coin for the trolley. I truly think I am past the stage of worrying what I look like 😊. 7 kg's in my backpack later of groceries and my much deserved red bulls I returned the coin with gratitude and regretfully left the perfectly air-conned shop to begin my even slower jog back.
So, in total I achieved 24 115 steps which equates to 18 k’s and I was on a total high.
Finally at 6 pm and a really big surprise bill for engines that apparently are in exceptional health, we started our journey to our spot for the night in a sheltered bay.
Last night was a big celebration of survival and achievements and at the end of the day we got off lightly and could have a good laugh - even if it is at myself.
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