Well we made it to Italy to spend two whirlwind days exploring Rome in what should have taken a week, but as the museum’s and cathedrals were still closed our time per iconic sight was less than would have been normally possible.
Walking 22 km on day one and 19 km on day two was pretty hectic, and taxing on the body, but passed without awareness as you literally bounce from attraction to attraction without awareness. There is just so much spectacular that it’s a short trip from one to the next.
Being in a Rome was a truly amazing experience and something I will never forget, especially at this unique time where it almost felt as if we had her all to ourselves. Day one was in the rain and produced a different kind of photograph with a wonderful backdrop of stormy skies to the dramatic architecture. On day two the sun came out with blue blue skies and even a little sunburn.
I have to be honest and say my favorite of all was the Trevi fountain, I had to keep coming back in the different light. And of course I just absolutely had to visit the famous Spanish steps ;-)
Which brings me back to Spain. I wrote about the things I would miss but did not realize the attachment I have made to a country that was merely meant to be a means to an end, to get to Croatia the country which stole my heart. Apparently something that’s quite easy to do (watch out Kevin!) because I definitely left a little of my heart behind in Barcelona.
“ the saying goes when in Rome do as the Romans do and that absolutely applied on this brief visit., it happened, we survived and now we needed to keep moving East to that elusive dream"
To me Italy represents passionate Italians and there were certainly a lot of those; exceptional pasta (lasagne with the lightest pasta I have ever eaten), delicious grapa - a uniquely Italian drink because why can you not, Italian ice cream known as Gelato and finally divine espresso.
While walking those 45,000 steps over the two days (yes we definitely burnt off those carbs) I started comparing the two cities. I thought it only fitting to have a little competition between the two, let’s see who wins...
Architecture and beauty of the cities goes to Rome hands down. While Barcelona is certainly beautiful it cannot compare to the plethora of amazing history and ruins across Rome. Especially with the streets being wider and allowing more open spaces and natural light between the buildings compared to Barcelona’s narrow alleyways and tall buildings crowding in on each other. So an early lead; Rome 1, Barcelona 0.
But then Barcelona has its beaches, miles and miles of lovely promenade with warm, clearwaters. 1 all.
I don’t believe there is much point in having beautiful spaces if the residents don’t enjoy them and here Rome doesn’t even get onto the pitch. If we saw all of three athletes during our many many miles of exploring Rome that would be a lot. Barcelona on the other hand makes the Capetonians look positively sedentary. There were seriously times when I counted over 50 SUPs heading out before 6 am to catch the sunrise from out on the ocean. Swimmers, runners, rollerblades, skateboarders and cyclist abound. Yoga, HIT and gymnasts doing somersaults on the beach - one just can’t keep track. 2 : 1 to Barcelona.
People value; maybe a little unfair since we spent far longer in Barcelona but while one admires the exquisite and stylish Italian families dressed to the nines for a casual dinner out or walk on the town, you just can’t compare to the sheer entertainment value the Spanish offer up. We could, and did, spend hours sitting and watching the fascinating multiple personalities on display in Barcelona, from their muliticoloured hair cuts that make Ragnar Rothbrook (the Vikings series for those in the dark) look positively conservative to the tattoos and piercings that adorn. I am talking totally covered, barely a patch of naked skin or non pierced ear visible. That’s 3 : 1 to Barcelona for those keeping score.
Graffiti graffiti graffiti. Maybe I should give both cities a zero here but to be fair the Barcelonians have ruined thousands of square meters of surfaces more than their counterparts in Rome. And I say surfaces because anything suffices as a “blank canvas” - only the fool leaves their van parked out in the open overnight. Sadly, while one does find the odd artistic piece, most seems to be scribbles and names. Another point for Rome.
Cleanliness of the streets; maybe it’s just because Rome’s streets are wider and it’s harder to keep the narrow, very high foot traffic cobbles of Barcelona clean, but Rome definitely surprised here. To be fair the Spanish do try cleaning daily (sometimes twice a day) but in reality they only seem to wash the dirty from one side of the street to the other. Rome draws level at 3 all.
Peoples voices; maybe a strange category but when you live in tiny apartments all on top of each other surrounded by people constantly in the streets at the many coffee shops, trust me this starts to become important. The Italians, with their melodious voices, win this one hands down to jump into the lead. The timber of the Spaniards are very distinctive.
When it comes to cost of living I should give Spain 2 points. Even in central Barcelona we found the prices to be very comparable to South Africa, and that’s at an exchange rate of 18 to 1 !!! The Italians however are killing us, we need to get out of here before we starve to death as we just can’t afford to eat in this country. This is turning into a close race at 4 all.
And why do the Italians hate chocolate? Seriously this is Europe, we are supposed to have access to the world's best. Search as I might I just can’t find more than half a shelf of the most meager selection - how is a girl supposed to survive on that? Even their “chocolate pastries” are nothing more than sweet, doughy bread. On that disappointing note Barcelona narrowly takes it at 5 to 4.
Joking aside, at the end of the day what an experience and privilege to visit both these amazing cities and to witness these special nationalities on this adventure.
“no more please - another ferry issue?.”
Which brings me back to our journey and the inevitable cancellations of the ferries from Italy to Croatia. First we were not allowed to board in Barcelona to Italy, then our ferry to Split on the 5th became the 12th and then surprise surprise the 29th. In fact it looks as if all Croatian bound passenger ferries out of Italy have been put on hold until July. Once again we have had to get creative and make a plan, so walking the docks we went. At 17:00, with three hours till boarding, we have managed to persuaded the Croatians to let us join them on their freight ferry to Zadar, leaving tonight. Yes it’s the wrong city, 150km up the coast from where we want to be in Split, but whoop whoop it’s the right country. And if everything goes according to plan (yes, yes I know) and we can make our way down South, then by 16:00 on Wednesday 10 June I will be standing on GypsyDjango for the first time. So it’s running back to our Airbnb to quickly pack our things, prepare some food and - following my sisters advice - remove my makeup, strap my breasts down and put my hair up under a peak cap so the truckers don’t notice me.
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