Moving overseas is never easy. Doing so in the midst of the world’s overreaction to a global corona virus epidemic sure as hell doesn’t help. If only we had seen this coming.
When I left for Spain at the end of January I didn’t know that this thing had been spreading across Europe from December already - who forgot to send me the memo? And of course I had to choose Spain as my method of entry into Europe; and who knew that the Spanish were so competitive? Well they certainly have topped the Corona Virus infection charts. And to make it worse, not just anywhere in Spain, but in Barcelona. They are so competitive they have decided their citizens can stay locked-down longer than the rest of the country. Don’t get me wrong, I love winning, but only when it makes sense and these numbers just don’t.
Leaving a beautiful home in Cape Town to live on a boat doesn’t appeal to most people at the best of times. It’s great for a two week holiday but why would anyone want to confine themselves full-time to a boat where your backyard is the depths of the ocean and the weather can be your best friend, or your worse enemy. But if your heart calls for adventure and you have a wandering spirit that craves new experiences and places, then this is the way to do it.
My journey through Spain is to gain access to Croatia which, aside from our beautiful Cape Town, to me has to be one of the most special places on our planet. The unhurried, unrushed, unstressed nature of the country caught my heart. And the defiant people who quite honestly, couldn’t give a care about your problems and nonsense. They seem to float through the day with no rush and only a single goal of getting the most enjoyment out of it. My method of stress relief might be a little alternative, but I do not know one person right now not wishing for a life with a little less of it. This lock-down certainly has made a lot of people look at their lives very differently.
We have been in lock-down since mid-March with repeated “little / hopeful” extensions. Now in May it hasn’t escaped my attention that somewhere along the way the conversation changed from “lock-down period” to “phased release” – very clever. With the transition from one phase to another based on the “epidemiological situation” and not on fixed dates, there is no end in sight in Spain. Closed borders and no means of travel, that’s the definition of proper lock-down.
“Since my daddy doesn’t own a private jet and I don’t own a 24 meter plus super yacht Croatia isn’t granting me any special early access rights.”
So in line with a recent comment of “desperate times calls for desperate measures” I am looking at how to break curfew and climb onto the back of a cattle truck in order to get to Croatia. Ok, not – but only because Croatia is even worse than Spain when it comes to unlocking borders. While I might possibly get there, and even love the journey, I would just be denied access and sent back.
A yacht that doesn’t sail is of no use to anyone. So for my (mental) survival, and to prove all those that say there are only two happy moments in a boat owner’s life wrong – one when you buy her and the second when you sell her – I will find a way.
Every day I scour the news and google has grown tired of me asking the same questions; when are Croatia’s borders opening, when will Spain let me out? What has changed in the last hour? How do I change the world when I truly have lost my power?
If I can’t work in the current constraints then the time has come for me to change the scenario. June was the time to fly to Croatia. Based on current predictions this more than likely will not be possible. So time to start looking at how to transit through Croatia with exit by sea (on the yacht) on my way to Greece. On further reflection, hiding out on-board in the Greek Ionian Islands until we can legitimately gain access to Croatia doesn’t sound so bad.
If I am being honest, then as far as my bucket list of countries I want to visit, Greece has just NEVER featured. Why? Well I have never really enjoyed the whole “Mykonos white house barren island scene”. It’s not great and that glare just has to hurt the eyes. While I did not particularly enjoy Greek food I do however have some fond memories of breaking plates.
“My limited perception of Greece was based on the pictures and watching Pierce Brosnan in Mamma Mia – although definitely sure I was not paying attention to the scenery.”
The country simply did not appeal to me and it was not until after I started sailing, in discussions with others on must visit destinations of the beautiful Mediterranean that I learnt about the remote Ionian Islands. I filed that in the back of my mind to explore later as a possible stop-over en-route from Croatia to Spain for winter shelter.
I have been very impressed with what I have found in my research on these little known and vastly undiscovered islands in the Ionian Sea. Without realizing I started comparing Croatia, a country I have visited six times and fallen in love with, to the similar yet different Islands of Greece (two or three days sail down the coast). Note that I keep referring specifically to the Ionians because they are very different in look and feel to that typical “barren” Greek island postcard.
To me Croatia is about the beauty of the Islands; the lush green forests on grey craggy peaks surrounded by deep blue waters. The ancient and varied history of the old towns and castles explored by wondering through tiny cobbled alleyways, discovering one passage of beautiful architecture after another. Their constantly fresh pastries, delightful seafood and local cured meats and cheese - always accompanied by wine – are such a delight. And don’t even get me started on the coffee…
While the hilly landscape of the Ionian Islands, with their abundant forests and white cliffs in stark contrast to the clear turquoise waters, I have seen that they are very similar to the southern coast of Croatia. The multi-coloured houses and relaxed villages take one back to a Croatia of ten years ago. Sailing the Ionian’s is perfect for everyone wanting maximum relaxation in an environment where you are not fighting for space.
Mythical Greece is about the sailing and the snorkeling in truly crystal turquoise waters, cuisine in tiny tavernas and the boisterous Greek locals. It’s a place to discover coves and hidden caves without the overabundance of tourists. There is no Ibiza or Hvar in the Ionian Islands and 2020 is going to be a year like none other – a serene calm outdoor season where you can let go of the stress of this year and just be.
And there is no better way to explore the beautiful islands of Greece than by sea. I look forward to the day we will welcome friends and family to experience this with us.
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