12 days of riding, 12 people, 520km, 10,000m descent, 10,000m ascent - what more do you need?
It seemed an un-achievable goal in 2011 to organise a MTB tour through the remotest parts of Nepal - and not only that, but to persuade others to join in order to make it viable.
Why Nepal? Well, Nepal is a small beautiful country nestled in the lap of the gigantic Himalayan Range and this tiny land-locked country boasts eight out of the ten highest mountains in the world - including Everest, the tallest. The concept of riding our bikes in the Himalayas with the extreme beauty and diverse heritage of a multi-ethnic and multi-cultural country drew us like a magnet.
“if I ignore it, it will go away”
And so what does it take? Ok stepping back; Kevin woke up with this wild idea and decided to make it happen, and I thought if I ignore it, it will go away. At this stage I was fairly new to riding, lacked technical skill and was not convinced a foreign land over 12 days was a good idea. But overtime I got to see the foolishness of my ways and jumped on the bandwagon of recruiting a team of friends to make this real. Fortunately I am exceptionally good at building a story and with thanks to my dogged determination, I am able to sell my dreams to others.
Back in 2011 when this brainwave appeared, building a trip like this was quite overwhelming. It became necessary to find a company that would take care of all the logistics, allowing us to make each day there purely about exploring and riding - without the distraction of worrying about the food, luggage or accommodation. All that became important was the destination and the journey along the way.
At this time Nepal was a mostly unknown destination for mtb'ing, with none of the current cookie cutter touring companies who provide a plethora of travel information and routes that you have access to today. And so we were very fortunate to have a unique experience with an off the beaten track itinerary which gave us access to the real and untouched Nepal.
We managed to source a tour guide company with first hand local knowledge of the area. It took a lot of convincing and faith to get enough people together to agree to go on this adventure. So after 18 months (we originally could not get enough numbers to commit for 2011) finally it was on. I learnt that you cannot spring your plans on other people - you need them to make it feasibly possible on their side and in 2012 it was a go!
The team was ready. Steve, Alisha, Ebbe, Mina, Kevin and I set off to make this dream an unforgettable memory. The mix of personalities in this group enabled a holiday of laughing (mostly at Steve) and of pure fun and enjoyment. Steve was an easy commit - really, do I have to train and how much fun will it be; Alisha,12 days! Yes - I am in without a doubt … Mina, this will be a beautiful opportunity and Ebbe FOMO!
This begins in Kathmandu, the beautiful Capital of Nepal, where we met our guides and began our story.
After meeting the rest of the team, we began our inland journey to Jomsom at the lower Mustang border. This was via two flights in tiny light aircraft literally only big enough for our crew - minus bikes which had been sent ahead separately 4 days prior. We arrived, and in one piece!! Bike building, some test riding and we were ready!
We eased into the first day by riding up to the upper mustang border at 3220m on icy trails with reduced oxygen and zero acclimatisation - a shock to the system. Our limbs were heavy and our pace was slow, but this allowed us to take in the spectacular views of the 800+m peaks flanking us. The remoteness of the vast landscape, as well as the stark beauty of the Annapurna range of mountains with the ever present Fishtail (Machapuchare) piercing the sky, truly cannot be given any justice in mere words.
We continued to villages such as Marpa, famous for their local cider and apple pie. By this stage we had formed a strong liking for Buffalo momos (Nepali dumplings) and even stronger dislike of disgusting yak cheese!
As we travelled across the mountains we descended steep downhills to the hot springs at Tatopani on blissful trails through the world’s deepest valley, the Kali Gandaki Gorge. We braved the old swing bridges across valleys connecting cattle and footpaths.
The riding consisted mostly of XC with the backdrop of Himalayan peaks while discovering the life of rural Nepalese life first hand. We rode via a maze of trails through rice paddies connecting fascinating villages and towns such as Pwe Tal and Pokhara. The reward of the daily climbs were delivered through the furious descents which fed all of our adrenaline requirements - although more than once we were reprimanded for leaving the local guide well behind. The pleasure of swimming in the icy Kali Gandaki River, whose source is at the Nhubine Himal Glacier (6,268m) on the Tibet border of the Mustang region, added to the adventure.
After a perfect day of touring the countryside by bike with a welcoming packed lunch, and even more welcoming nap beside a well tended field, we would arrive at our destination for the evening to share our stories over another night of exceptional Nepalese food. Bring on the momos!
Nepal had yet another surprise in store for us in Gorka, the town of the famous Gurkha Battalion who fought for the British Army, where we had the opportunity of meeting a 100+ year old Gorka man who enthralled us with his brave tales of battle in the 2nd world war.
Experiencing the mountains and beauty of remote Nepal was a great adventure. But to be privy to communities and a culture steeped in tradition and untouched by the outside world - some of the villages we encountered had never heard of Coca Cola - was deeply humbling. The excitement, awe and shock as they watched us cycle past - most had barely seen bicycles, let alone women riding them. Interacting with the children was a beautiful privilege, even if some of them were highly suspicious of me!
Memories of our 12 day journey by MTB, beginning at the Tibet boarder and finishing in Kathmandu, will stay with me for ever. Sleeping in quaint tea lodges or camped in tents and waking up to a bowl of warm water outside your tent. Bathing in crystal clear icy rivers or taking a break with the excited school children of a remote village. This was without a doubt my most precious and fulfilling journey on a bike. We had so much fun and together we laughed and cried for 12 days on an unbelievable adventure with such different personalities that created incredible memories and definitely set the bar high for future adventures.
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